1512 Registry Member - Steven W. Stull

Dawsonville, GA
Contact - Steven Stull
Pages for Steven W Stull - Who is Steven W. Stull
This page updated: April 13, 2009 4:55 PM Documented by the Official 1512 Hurst SC/Rambler Registry
All information is inserted chronologically and listed in order by the most current entry and the history follows below.

This restoration is being displayed in reverse, from the most current date first and previous dates follow below, this way all viewers keeping an eye on this car can check in regularly on the progress with-out having to scroll to the bottom of the page every time.

Dec 20, 2007

X-Ram now bolted on making this Scrambler an even more sought after peice of AMC history.

I just did these photos of my new NOS Factory AMC Cross Ram .
Please note that would never ever be possible without Matt's direct input.
This is a very gray area as far as being usable or not. Matt has proven hands down that this is a very street able system. My best advice is if you have anyway of getting one of these factory serial numbered Cross Ram intakes, Better get them now!!!! The linkage was stiff on my Cross Ram setup due to the non use and sitting. I removed and cleaned and replaced everything throughout the linkage and it works and looks as never being touched.

Nov 14, 2007



Here are photos of maybe the last NOS Factory Group-19 Cross Ram AMC intake in existence, I also found and purchased a (REAL) SST 635 Sun Tach as this was the only Tach Scramblers came with. The manifold also came with a NOS water neck and thermostat, Water temp sending unit and NOS complete intake linkage. The carb's are NOS as well. Before I get attacked by anyone. I know the carb's shown are wrong for my 1969 Scrambler or a SS/AMX. But I have the correct carb's for the intake. I will use neither of these sets. I will be using a new set of Holley carb's just like Matt Wilson's Scrambler. He has without a doubt that this cross Ram system is without a doubt able to be driven on the street in normal use without any problems.

Aug 7, 2007

I have been replacing areas of fasteners with grade (8) stainless steel fasteners. These areas are in the engine bay and mostly on the engine and any attachments. Not cheap but over the top. I have completed the entire drive train and including the bell crank and all attachments from the clutch pedal to the throw out bearing arm. All original seals and pain in the butt clips and grommets. Parts I had special ordered came in last and I could not wait to put them on and they were related to the clutch assembly between the engine and the frame. I worked for several hours to see it completed. I am so very pleased and happy when I went down this morning and reviewed the results.
100% completed now from the wiring and the mechanic's and the entire drive line.

Not a get me by local hardware store assembly either. I waited and waited and brought the correct parts in from well over (8) locations to make this happen. No one place has all the correct parts. I have been replacing new parts that I bought years ago and was told they were the correct parts. They were not. They were what the seller had to offer.

Dan Oakley has resolved my problem for my correct carb My problem has been:
The Ram Air tub must be present and work with the carb. No new carb today makes a top base as small as the old AFB's A old numbers AFB is available but under rated and restrictive for the horse power. Dan is building me a new Edlebrock Performer 750 carb but attaching the stock correct upper case of the Carter to it so it matches my Ram Air pan. The Carter case parts all fit the new Edlebrock carbs throughout. Everything will be new except the upper casting lid of the carb. This allows me to have and retain the stock Ram Air system and have the performance of the new carb. Plus I will have the real numbers matching Carter 4-speed 390 carb from my car on the side. This has been a thorn in my side as to how to resolve this problem. Done now!

June 14, 2007

April 11, 2007

Original B scheme, currently being restored to a perfect A scheme. Genuine Rotisserie restoration with extreme attention to every detail and workmanship far above factory standards.

Being documented before you, This Hurst Scrambler still sports it's original drive train with several group 19 upgrades. Not even close to a Restomod. This car started as a solid car with no previous accidents or terminal rust issues and to further more show the condition and current state of this rare piece of history. It is being 100% rebuilt from the ground up by way of rotisserie with the focus on detail that will enhance every area. This is a radio delete and non undercoat car that has stood the test of time and is now being brought back to a level above factory standards and will no doubt be a new benchmark for the very few remaining Scramblers that are known today. No cover up's no stories and no excuses.
I want to make it very clear that I have no interest in doing this car at a Concourse level.
These were never that nice from the factory. I am going above that level and making the car more as a functional illustration that will proudly and clearly and cleanly show off every part that it takes to put one of these together. Paying close attention to the smallest details of each part. I am doing this because I love the hobby and the cars. This is my time off and most relaxing (almost always).
This is how I have restored countless cars in the past and it's not my first time. My goal was to keep it a original Hurst SC/Rambler but not throw the car together with inferior fasteners or parts that would just rust again and only paint what you can see. Every part has been painted both sides or plated or restored to the highest level possible.
I am doing this restoration and showing it all to help the others get free information and steps to restore their cars. I have been there and have personally done it myself and this car is showing results of the (6) year research with trial and error and who to and who not to deal with so the owners do not go threw what I had to learning. If you have one Please don’t wait as the parts are few to none and at least acquire any part now if you see it as they are rarely reproduced parts due to the low number of these that were made.
Kind Regards,
Steven W Stull

Mar 30, 2007

I dropped the Mallory Unilite distributor in and looks great. I am taking this route as the Group 19 packages used Mallory but in the day. This car still had the old Mallory parts in it when I got it. I will not run the additional box on the inner fender. I have gone with the high out put coil and not needing the resistor.

The bumpers have been re chromed and the bumper brackets were sand blasted and painted years ago and ready to install. I did not however rebuild the front and rear parking light and back up lights yet, So tonight that was my focus. Photos show the lights after the rebuild and all the factory parts in order that were restored. It is important to soak the spring sockets over night to free up the floating contact platforms inside. This will allow the bulbs to removed and replaced as needed. New lens and seals were acquired. The rest is all factory. Note the front and rear factory plug ends. I have learned that if you have a great housing but the plug end is wrong or the being on the front or rear, You can swap these out. I removed the bulb and pressed the socket out complete and installed it in to a great used housing.

Mar 29, 2007


Mar 27, 2007

Attached photos,
The entire drive train is bolted in and secured. Didn't even get my hands dirty!

Today I am picking up the correct fluids for the engine, Trans and rear end and top them off. New front and rear shocks are inbound

Mar 20, 2007



Feb 26 2007

The heat shields on the engine are NOS and still available for $40.00 for the complete set.

The scoop is one of the smaller openings and not the giant mail box scoop. I understand there were like (3) versions.

Close up shot of the E-Brake that connects just in front of the rear end where the two rear wheel cables come to meet and the one cable goes to the handle under the dash. This is where the adjustments are made.

Good door, hood and trunk gaps. (for a Rambler)
Front filler valance is in for good now. Trunk and hood have been mounted to complete the fender and door fittings.

NOS Thrush out of their old tattered boxes await their turn.


The bell housing was beaded and cleared, The scatter plate was cadmium plated (not silver painted).

The headlight buckets were so nice. All I needed to do was plastic bead them and clear them.

Chrome was re plated on handles, shifter and bumpers, The "T" Handel is correct and available from Hurst now. These were being sold and scalping at prices of $75.00-$100.00 when available from Hurst for $35.00.

Original Blackstone radiator re cored and ready.
The clutch system is street/strip HD.

I elected to step up over the stock starter and purchase a high torque racing starter because of the compression /HP.

The alternator is high output and made to order out of California at a cost of $159.00 in the good old USA.


The tail lights are completed and housings are sporting new NOS lenses and gaskets and screws.


The tank is in and gas lines connected (not the power)


The protective shield back by the gas tank sending unit protects the line from the heat from the tail pipe going over the axle. This was raw metal from the factory and very rusty looking. I made a new one from the same thick metal but out of aluminum and it will never rust and do the same job looking great. The old one will go with all the other old correct parts when the car finds it's new owner.

Feb 7 2007

These photos show the end result of the lengthy steps to make what you see here.
Notes are I was advised several times that the AMO judge looks for on the rims that they were black first in the back then the Bright Blue was sprayed afterwards to see this affect. Please! Anyone out there that is reading this and knows different, Please say so now. I could have made it look better but did this for judges! The rims were glass beaded right here and epoxy primer, Sanded, Sealed and then on the back side and tire areas I used Black in the low sheen series. The face of the rims were done in the Bright Blue that AMC called for.


This was fun today. I am not sure how anyone else does this. But this worked just fine for me and a little touch up will put this where I want to be. Most are going to know that your tank has been restored so why not make a statement and make it clean. The exterior color I used for the tank was Corvette Cortez Sliver and tried to make a sheen appearance. Oh by the way, The gas tank in my personal opinion has come forth with a look that I was hoping for.

Feb 6 2007
Feb 2 2007

I have moved the entire drive train over to the shop with the Scrambler.
I will complete the parts needed bolted on the engine here and touch up paint the engine before install. Jim McKee selected all Hayes speed equipment for the clutch assembly and a Mallory ignition system. I have to put a water pump on the front and a carb. The Ram Air breather is all stock and all there including the stove pipe. These engines had Carter fuel pumps on them new. I found years ago a racing high output Carter NOS fuel pump that is already installed by Jim McKee. Has a NOS oil pan on it and the R4B with no alterations or past breakages. I was very blessed to have this supplied by Gordy Chilson. Mike Lewis had a small amount of NOS correct air filters and PVC valves, This engine sports these as well.

The Sun gauge package is dated to 1969-1970. These are a combo of NOS and good used. These were the best high end speed equipment that was available at the time this car was new. They are in NOS chrome cups and has the correct attachments to make the entire rack work as new. These alone are a very hard find complete with sending units and hardware. This Scrambler will look as if it was from a time capsule.
I am building this car as a dependable drivable show car. Not a Concourse car that some one only talks about owning and never sets a tire on the road.

If wanted, This car could easily go concourse with only changing bolted on items.
No gray area here Please. This is a real Hurst SC/Rambler. I still hold title to the 1969 Rambler Rouge (was pristine condition) I bought first before finding this real SC/Rambler.

The best of the two cars were used to bring just this one to it's present state.
A 1969 Rambler Rouge today is as hard to find as a real Scrambler. That's why to try to clone one is near impossible.

Jan 31 2007

A few more, I am going to be dropping the engine and trans complete in the car over this weekend.

Jan 27 2007

Looks much better today and items packed away in proper places. I just brought the complete rear end and transmission over and test fitted it today. I was ready for a bit of a fight but he parts just fit perfect into place.
A lot done over the last week that on the outside looking in would never see as to the extensive replacement of all parts. Once again, All original parts and fasteners are being kept in the original condition when removed. The items that were removed were either replaced as by its new counter part or had to be rebuilt and/or restored.

Jan 17, 2007

Here are today's photos as I move to reassembling the Scrambler. I cannot stand to put a original rusty stock OEM fasteners on, So I find the new cross over's and retains the same look as when new. Equal to or above stock standards.

Jan 16, 2007
Jan 15, 2007
Tonight in the shop and making good progress!
How could you possibly do this any other way?????
Jan 14, 2007

Notice the full size photos on the bench, these close ups pictures should always be taken prior to disassembly, this practice will save you a ton of time for reassembly reference. There is a lot of truth in that old saying, A picture says a thousand words!

Jan 9, 2007



I also still would never drive the car myself. It is to perfect and flawless underneath.

I would croak if I got the ole Georgia clay coated underneath this Beauty!

Jan 7 2007

I couldn't take the pressure anymore and had to take more photos.

These are after I untapped the car and rolled it to be upright. It is even better in person.


This car is truly a illustration model and as clean and straight as they get. One last area to paint white and that is the trunk. Early on I removed the very hard cracked and dried undercoat sound deadener that coats the trunks of the cars new. Very sloppy in the process of applying when new and shows. I will first seam seal all major joints with brush on seam sealer. After drying I will apply 3M Body Schultz to correctly match the texture of the factory sound deadener that was on the inner rear quarters and select trunk areas. These are all paintable coatings and will be sealed in gray and then white top coat.

The paint code I am using in Dupont is 216671D


The paint code I am using in Dupont is 216671D This is a cross over to the AMC color of Bright white or door code P88. The Bright Red on the "A" cars is coded P9, And the Bright Blue is coded P10. Please see attached as to the photos just taken 1 hour ago! I did take a few photos progressively as the day went on to the final coats of white and being completed underneath. The two rear wheel wells will be coated in black Body Schultz as well.

Gravel guard protection

Today is Sunday and I worked last night carefully taping up the already painted areas to not get any over spray on these sections. I applied 3 coats last night to the underside in selected areas for the gravel guard protection. I got up early this morning and with excitement applied 2 more coats of gravel guard and sealed the entire underside then applied (4) coats of white. The gravel guard areas are so undetectable to a untrained eye and very smooth and nearly matches the straight painted areas. I couldn't be more pleased with the outcome.

Jan 5 2007

White suit treatment!

Well it might be taking me all week just to proof and shoot the remaining shell section of the Scrambler but it is all making it quite clear it was worth it. Car to date looks fantastic!! I applied 4 coats of white after the gray sealer to the entire front section of the car. In the areas where stones may fly up from the tires or from the road, I applied 5 coats of medium texture chip guard under the white. This will replace any undercoat and more so give the car great protection from road debris. Painting the front section in and out was the most difficult to date as of all the hard areas to reach and the many angles and brackets.


This is any assembly mans dream to have something like this on which to build on!
You could wear a white suit and not get dirty on this assemble.


By far better than the factory job and forever protected.

Jan 3 2007


Over the last two days I did two sections of the white and took my time to be sure all was coated from all sides, even where no none will ever see after the car is assembled. This is (5) heavy coats of factory white.

Dupont Chromabase
5 heavy coats of factory white

This will be color sanded and buffed to a mirror finish. I am using Dupont Chromabase with hardener. I will carefully tape up the selected areas and shoot the entire engine bay tomorrow and the front inner fender wells.


The last will be the entire underside from the bottom of the firewall back. It looks like a piece of porcelain and very smooth even at this stage. In a few of the photos here you can clearly see the rolled lip fenders.

By this Sunday, She's all white!

Jan 1 2007

The perfectionist leaves no inch un detailed

After yesterdays epoxy primer, I sprayed the guild coat first off this morning and began my final sanding on the remaining outer shell. The entire car is sitting and ready to spray sealer and white.

I have elected to break the car up in several sections so I can take my time in each area and complete it as I go not having to return to that area again. I taped up all but the roof and rear self and upper cowl area.


I will roll the car on the rack between coats to ensure complete coverage. I will be more detailed in the coverage than the factory here for addition life and protection for the car.

All I am doing right now is seam sealing and painting. The trunk will receive the correct textured sound deadener before painting.

Dec 31 2006

The masking and sanding extravaganza begins

Over the last several days I blocked and board filed over and over till I felt this is a perfect outer body surface. The photos show the SC taped up and ready to spray. I applied 2 more coats of Dupont Epoxy primer to all the outer exposed areas. This will be sanded and sealed and painted. The taped up areas are ready to have the Dupont non-sanding sealer applied and the white top coat applied. I will paint the car in three sections. What is shown as a whole one section, The underside and complete front inside and out and third the trunk area by it's self. The underside and the trunk will be painted and this will be the last application of color to them.


Selected seams and joints will have 3M drip check sealer applied for additional protection. The factory on these cars did not care much about sealing seams and joints so much. I will keep that look but forever protect this car as well. This shell is a beautiful diamond and is hiding nothing! I am proud to show all how clean and straight the body and most of all the underside as to being a rare undamaged unaltered under carriage this car sports.


Rare factory untouched rolled lip fenders

This is a shot of the rare factory untouched rolled lip fender in the rear that is most commonly gone for good due to replacement via rust or wrecks or cut out for larger wheels. These (4) rolled lips fenders are very much present and in fantastic condition.

Dec 26 2006

Undercarriage detail

The dust coat or guide coat of black paint typical of quality professional paint jobs, seen here being used on the undercarriage. The extreme detail this car is receiving will do doubt be evident upon it's completion & setting this Scrambler apart from the typical restoration stigma, this car will not only be accurate but with quality above and way beyond the original manufacture standards. Steven has chose to leave no inch un detailed as can be seen in these photos taken today and yesterday of the final sanding of the shell and movement in the Rotisserie.


Title & Door Tag

Oct 31 2006

New and NOS parts when ever possible!

This car is at the top in my personal attention. I have done this car in the detail myself and only sublet out the rest to the best in the country.

It goes much much deeper than this.
I forgot to honest the amount of restoration to each and every part I did. There is little left to detail and little to purchase before assembly.

I haven't even took photos of the new dash complete and new Dash pad from Just dashes or the seats and head rests or the front suspension or the NOS Hurst drag shocks or the correct shifter with the correct Hurst "T" handle with the shift pattern and the real mirrors as well as the exhaust tips or the stainless steel pre-bent gas and brake lines with the original rebuilt front disc brakes and mater cylinder and brake booster or the carpet , Stripe kit and new window seals and much much more.
It is a radio delete car and a non-undercoat car.

I really have had some of the countries finest in the restoration of this SC/Hurst car.
Jim McKee the drive train (AMC Chapter president and AMO Judge)
Gordy Chilson interior.
Mr. G's complete re chromed and rebuilt dash plastic
Just Dashes did a perfect recreation of the original!!!!!
Hurst was involved to build my shifter
Many up's and downs to find the perfect parts for the car that were as perfect as possible and like the original




The car was exterior chemically stripped by myself and I have photos before and after and the engine bay and under side was a combination of chemical and media blasting, After, metal wash primer and then primmer the car the numbers under the steering box were getting hard to see. So sanded down the area where the numbers are and put clear tape over them for now.
The door tag had to be removed as the doors were stripped. I have the correct rivets to reattach. I took detailed photos up close of the car everywhere before taking it apart and each area I worked on before restoring that.


A close up before I removed the door tag. You can see the white paint under the orange.

The car was painted almost after being new 1970 Hemi Orange and had the snorkel hood scoop removed and a 440-six pack hood scoop installed. The car at a glance looked like a Mopar. It was raced this way. No roll bar or body damage cutting anywhere. But being the race package that the car had from the factory this is how the owners elected to race it. The paint was badly chipped and looking ragged when I saw the car and I was disenchanted at the least as to my new purchase. Only after stripping the car was a flawless smooth body to be found underneath. All they had done was lightly dent in where the SC/Rambler and Hurst emblems were and painted it orange.

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